The History of Chanel Costume Jewelry

All about how Chanel costume jewelry came to be and the legacy that it carries on.

Chanel is often remembered for their timeless designs with an understated appeal for all classic fashion lovers. However, while the brand's clothing may adhere to this, Chanel jewelry takes a different path. Each season, the Chanel runways are filled with strands upon strands of necklaces, thick bracelet cuffs, and long dangling earrings, all assembled to decorate the simple and classic clothing. These pieces are not made of  diamond and gold, but rather they are costume jewelry, made of metals, glass, leather, faux pearls, and other so called 'regular' materials.

When Coco Chanel first started designing in the 1920s, costume jewelry was not accepted as a form of jewelry because it showed one could not afford the luxuries of the time. Rather, people donned just a few high end pieces, quietly showing their wealth and status. However, Coco Chanel loved the mix of high end and low end pieces and especially loved the maximalist look of layering accessories. 

By the 1930s, Chanel's jewelry was becoming heavily inspired by nature, flora and all things botanical. This is linked to when she began working with Maison Gripoix- an iconic french jewelry house known for its use of 'glass paste.' Coco Chanel worked closely with the atelier to create beautiful one of a kind floral designs that have a shimmery hue of bright colors. It is said that Chanel would often visit the Louvre Museum in Paris to gather inspiration for these designs. She loved the idea that the brands jewelry looked 'excavated' and imperfect- almost like a piece of art history.

Chanel recognized an unforeseen talent in her textile designer, Duke Fulco di Vedura- an Italian aristocrat and visionary jewelry designer who played a pivotal role in revolutionizing fashion jewelry in the 20th century. His collaboration with Coco Chanel in the 1930s marked a turning point in the world of costume jewelry when they created the iconic Chanel Maltese Cross motif - thus leading to the Maltese Cross Cuffs which Chanel was known to regularly wear. Verdura and Chanel reimagined the Maltese Cross—a symbol with deep historical and religious roots—into a modern, avant-garde statement. The cuffs were typically made from gilded metal or base materials, not precious metals, and featured bright, colorful cabochon stones like amethyst, topaz, and turquoise, often in asymmetrical arrangements.

After closing her design house for fifteen years during World War II, Chanel reopened stores in 1954 and turned to Richard Goossens, a well known couture jewelry designer, to help her. Often referred to as the "Maitre d’Art" of fashion jewelry, Goossens blended historical and artistic influences, drawing inspiration from Byzantine, Renaissance, and medieval styles. Working closely with Chanel from the 1950s onward, he created ornate, baroque-inspired pieces using materials like rock crystal, gilt bronze, and glass to evoke a sense of antiquity and luxury without relying on precious gems. Their collaborative idea of mixing faux and precious stones is a tradition that still stands today. Now, Chanel jewelry continues to be extravagant and filled with inexpensive jewels so people can decorate their outfits without the extreme costs that comes with other fine jewelry. 

It's no secret that at Michael's, we love Chanel and hope to carry on the brands legacy by showcasing the amazing costume jewelry pieces from the brand and giving our customers the opportunity to own this rare pieces of history. We are lucky have both incredible vintage and modern Chanel finds, from earrings to necklaces to rings and even belts. Of course, we recommend you pair any costume jewelry with the brands even more luxurious clothing, shoes and handbags- click here to celebrate Chanel and her jewelry legacy!